IT
ALSO WORKS ON YOUR
TRUCK
/ RV / MOTORCYCLE / AIRPLANE (ETC)
Will
This Work?
These
plans were sent to the Spirit of Ma'at anonymously, from someone who does not want
his or her name printed (for obvious reasons). We have had them checked by an
expert who believes that they are real. We also have talked with another
individual who has patented a similar device, and we know by personal
experience that the technology is sound. So although we cannot guarantee it, we
believe these plans will enable you to build a car that runs on water. If you
test it out, though, do as the writer suggests and use an old car that doesn't
represent a loss of value if you can't make it work. And leave everything intact
so that you can always reconnect back to gas if you have to. But if you do get
it working, please send us your experience for our readers. You could be a
national hero and help save our country and our world. We know for certain that
an automobile will run on water. So this could be an interesting project for
you mechanical types, with a great reward of never having to purchase gasoline for
the rest of your life - and helping humanity at the same time. Re The Need
to Rustproof Your Exhaust System
It
is possible to make a hybrid of both gas and water (a system that is being
tested now in Mexico), which would eliminate the need to open the head and
remove the exhaust system. Just a thought. It takes only a small amount of gas
to keep the system dry. The text sent from the anonymous individual was edited
slightly for better reading. The following is his/her words and drawings, which
has been given into the public domain.
-
Spirit of Ma’at LLC
Introduction
It
is suggested you try this out to begin with on a second vehicle you own, one
that you don't need to live with everyday, until you perfect this technology. Do-it-yourself
plans allow the individual (that's you and me, folks) to make a difference. This
is the easiest and lowest-cost way to convert your car to run on (relatively)
free energy.
Now,
with existing technology, anyone can stand up and make a difference by reducing
the local automotive pollution, eliminate gasoline expenses, help restore our
atmosphere, and breathe a little easier. In putting these plans into operation,
you will be making use of your entire existing system except for the fuel tank
and the catalytic converter.
The
Plan
Build
and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal combustion
engine) on tap water, using off-the-shelf components. This is simply an
efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and oxygen,
and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline. This "minisystem"
runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into
your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf fittings. You will be installing a
plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hipressure carb/FI
fitting, and 3 gauges, and then hooking into your existing carb/FI. The
simplicity comes from its being an "on-demand" system requiring no
fancy storage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you
electrically create more vapor for immediate consumption, on demand; low-high
flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The only real change is that
you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based
fuel. Given a choice, which way would you choose?
Frequently
Asked Questions
Q:
Does it really work ?
A:
Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless steel. But be
sure to follow these instructions using the proper mechanical and electrical
assembly techniques, as this plan incorporates the best qualities of several
techniques.
Q:
How does it qualify as "free energy"?
A:
If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not strictly free.
But the alternative is to keep buying into expen$ive ga$oline and its resultant
hydrocarbon pollution.
Q:
Is it safe?
A:
Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel because you are no longer
choking on your own emissions (health-wise). In general, it is practically as
safe as your current gasoline arrangement. You will be installing a few simple
safety devices, using current automotive standards.
Q:
What kind of performance can I expect?
A:
Properly adjusted, your modified vapor-only fuel system will run cooler, and at
a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this
design ranges from 50-300 mpg (of water), depending on your adjusting skills.
Q:
Can I do the modification myself?
A:
Why not? If you don't have any mechanical skills, and you know someone with
basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some of the
construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you may have to get a
mechanic's opinion. [There will have to be an adapter inserted into the
fuel-injection system, just as you would have to do if you were going to run on
propane, hydrogen, or natural gas. Ed.)
Q:
What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?
A:
It will be producing H20 steam (water vapor) and unburnt O2 (Oxygen). Hence, it
will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it.
Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen.
Any excess vapor in the reaction becomes either steam or oxygen. You can also
expect to be receiving more than casual interest from those around you.
Q:
Isn’t this really a steam engine?
A:
No. Really. Exceedingly high temperature and pressure are not used. This is
strictly an internal-combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen) with residual
steam in the exhaust as a by-product.
There
are a few things you should know about gasoline:
Gasoline
as a fuel is not necessary; it is optional.
Gasoline
versus Water
There
is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even more energy in
water. The DOE (Department of Energy) has quoted about 40%, so it is probably
much more than that. Most people are unaware that "internal
combustion" is defined as "a thermo-vapor process" - as in
"no liquid in the reaction." Most of the gasoline in a standard
internal combustion engine is actually consumed, (cooked, and finally, broken
down) in the catalytic converter after the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the
engine. Sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way is used only
to cool down the combustion process, a pollutionridden and inefficient means of
doing that.
How
It Works
Exceedingly
simple. Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in
the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-5A electrical pulse which
breaks 2(H2O) => 2H2 + O2. When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn
the key and go. You step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes,
and thus more vapor to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapor on demand. You set the
idle max-flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you're off to the
races. In the big picture, your free energy is coming from the tap water in an
open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine
and hence drive the
alternator
and whatever belt-driven accessories. And the alternator is efficient enough to
run the various electrical loads (10 - 20 amps), including the additional low
current to run this vapor reaction. No extra batteries are required.
STEP
BY STEP CONSTRUCTION (Please refer to diagrams at the end of this document)
OVERVIEW
- Here is the suggested sequence of steps:
1.
Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp range (gasoline),
for comparison.
2.
Build and test the controller to verify the correct pulse output.
3.
Build the reaction chamber and test it with the controller (i.e pressure out).
4.
Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings.
5.
Run engine and adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance.
6.
Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with
ceramic.
7.
Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter (or let it
rust out and then replace the whole dang thang with stainless steel pipe
sections).
YOU
WILL NEED
plastic
water tank with pump and level sensor.
control
circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
reaction
chamber with electrodes and fittings.
3/8"
stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.
carb/FI
vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
stainless
steel valves.
copper
mesh junction.
ceramic
surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
stainless
steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.
BASIC
TOOLS
drill,
screwdriver and pliers
hole
cutter
wire-wrap,
solder-iron and clippers
DVM
and oscilloscope.
REACTION
CHAMBER
Construct
as shown in the diagrams. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a
threaded
screw-cap
fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to
drill-andepoxy
or
tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water
level
in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some
headroom
to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires
inside
the
chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside.
Ensure
that
the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof
silicone
that
can hold pressure.
The
screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to
hold
pressure
and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make
sure
you
get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced
literature
suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get your
chamber
level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Make
your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and
solid; then
apply
a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the
screw cap.
This
epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under
pressure.
You
will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap
on.
CONTROL
CIRCUIT
The
diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system. You are
going to
make
a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which
you can
watch
on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: the faster you want
do go
down
the road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber.
Duty
cycle
will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).
There
is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many
ways
to
generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few. The diagram shows the
NE555-
circuit
approach from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be
rated
for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).
Go
with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or
mechanic, and
go
get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store, such as
Radio-Shack or
Circuits-R-Us,
including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
DigiKey
has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no minimum order.
Be
sure
to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room
for
mounting
2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment
will
require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You
can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and
thruhole
discrete
components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC
you
use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending
prototype
testing.
You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the
cap
on.
Throttle
Control
If
you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal
from the
sensor
itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as
the
primary
control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width = vapor rate).
If
you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable
resistor)
to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle
cable
running
to the carb or FI. If you make the attachment at the carb/FI, be sure to use a
POT
that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one
rated
for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and
stationary
that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
Control
Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor rate, i.e.
pulsewidth
(duty).
The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal
voltage,
say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage
swing
to
generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse
in the 10-
250
KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
In
this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most
efficient vapor
conversion.
You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect
the
right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. You
can use
spare
sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that
are
spec-compatible
in the circuit, and get the job done.
You
crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses)
into the
electrodes;
verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 - 100 usec on the horizontal
timebase).
Your
averaging DVM will display the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output
transistor
(Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current
and
measure .5 - 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got
everything
you wanted.
Verify
your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your
wiring
1 at
a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use
board-mount
miniature
POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a
quick
visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will
want to
get
your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
CARB/FI
CONNECTION
The
diagram also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI l. There are
ready-made
kits
(such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the
carburetor or
fuel-injector
as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and
making
a 1-way air-intake.
The
copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the reaction
chamber.
Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure
without
leakage. Your new 'system' is considered successful and properly adjusted when
you
get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing
the
pressure
safety valve.
CHT
(or EGT)
Monitor
your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp)
instead
of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too
slow for
this
application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have
burnt
something.
Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement.
VDO
makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug
against the
cylinder
head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as
this is
also
an electrical ground).
ENGINE/EXHAUST
TREATMENT
Get
the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders
ceramictreated
ASAP
when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not
delay
as these items will rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it
sit). You
could
make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal
until it
rusts
through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel
exhaust
pipe
(no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to
send your
existing
exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to
the
exhaust ports.
GENERAL
1.
Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline setup components, e.g. tank,
carb/FI,
catalytic
converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back
to
something
that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline setup
completely
intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan.
2.
Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapor flow at idle, and
maximum vapor
flow
at full power without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you
control how
'lean'
your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. “fatness” at the optimum
pulse
frequency).
3.
If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you
need to
(1)
change the pulse frequency, (2) change the gap between the electrodes, (3)
change the
size
(bigger) electrodes, or (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort).
Always use
an
output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current
you
need
to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn't
that
where
all the Fun is anyhow?
4.
If you get any engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting
the
timing),
it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive
the
coil
with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .1sec time base (see
diagram). Here,
you
will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapors burn thru out
the
power
stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct
strength
of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about
1500
turns
(thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT
touching
either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want no knocking
at
any
power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover
from
the
combustion.
5.
Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to
mount them
conveniently
near the dash panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This
way,
you can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship.
Remember
that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof,
vibration
and temperature tolerant fashion.
6.
If you have to drill a thru-hole for wiring or plumbing thru metal, make sure
to also
install
a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure
range
from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi). Set your safety-pressure
reliefvalve
to
75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher.
7.
Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any malfunction of the
system. Your
engine
will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum
temperature
that
we are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapor Flow and/or by making
use
of
the water-vapor cooling technique (see diagram). Keep good mpg performance
records,
and
periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air;
heal
the
planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment.
8.
There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapor system thru a fuel
injector;
there
may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes
progress.
For
example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapor without any
water
vapor, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then
you
will
want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always
“replacing
the FI system with a Carb.”
9.
If you install the water-vapor system (for lower operating temp/stress), you
will want
to
lean the mixture (vapor/air) for minimum vapor flow rate to achieve any given
throttle
position
(idle - max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE and a modestly
sufficient
flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion.
10.
If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap,
you can
always
regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes.
11.
If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add
some
98%
isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install
some
electric
heating coils.
12.
Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your independence
or
your
truth.
REFERENCES
Stephen
Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or
Parahydrogen'
US Patent 6126794, uspto.gov
Stanley
Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961,
uspto.gov
Creative
Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com
Carl
Cella “A Water-Fuelled Car” Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996
Peter
Lindemann “Where in the World is All the Free Energy”, free-energy.cc
<http://www.free-energy.cc/>
George
Wiseman “The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series” eagle-research.com
<http://www.eagle-research.com/>
C.
Michael Holler “The Dromedary Newsletter” and “SuperCarb Techniques”
Stephen
Chambers “Prototype Vapor Fuel System” xogen.com <http://www.xogen.com/>
COMMON
LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of these plans are
hereby reserved for the People,
in
their efforts to heal and restore the environment. Dare to express your
uniqueness and environmental ideals. This
technology
is an exercise in responsible self-determination.
DISCLAIMER:
The Spirit of Ma'at LLC and the Spirit of Ma'at ezine and the author of this
document assumes no liability for
the
use or misuse of this information; which is made available as public-domain
information and free of charge, for the
purposes
of education, ecology, health, well-being, freedom, liberty, and pursuit of
happiness.
Postingan
